The First Layer in 3D Printing: Getting Started with 3D Models Software
3D printing is a fun and accessible technology, and recently one of the young people we work with gave us some insights into what it takes to get started. Turns out that getting great prints requires understanding some key concepts. If you’re also just starting, you’ll quickly learn that the first layer is an important factor in print success. Without a strong foundation, prints may warp, detach, or suffer from what is known as ‘poor adhesion’ – in other words, not sticking to the build plate. In this guide, we’ll look at things that matter for the first layer of your 3D print, including first-layer options, the right temperatures for successful printing, and how print speed and layer height affect results.
First Layer Options in 3D Printing
Your printer’s first layer determines the success of the entire print. There are different approaches to laying down this crucial first layer, each serving a specific purpose:
Raft
A raft is a thick, multi-layer base that sits underneath your model. It provides excellent adhesion and compensates for uneven print beds. It’s particularly useful for materials prone to warping, such as ABS. However, rafts use some extra filament, and then removing them cleanly will need some post-processing.
Brim
A brim is a single-layer extension around the base of your model. It increases surface contact with the bed. It stops edges from lifting and is ideal for small or delicate prints that need additional stability. Unlike a raft, a brim is easy to remove and doesn’t waste much material.
Skirt
A skirt is a perimeter outline printed around, but not touching, your model. It doesn’t enhance adhesion but serves to prime the nozzle and check bed leveling. Skirts help ensure smooth extrusion before the main print starts, catching issues early.
Direct-on-Bed Printing
If your printer bed is well-leveled and provides good adhesion, you can print directly on the bed without additional support. This method works well with materials like PLA on PEI or glass surfaces, but you’ll need to ensure your bed is properly prepared with adhesives (like glue stick or hairspray) for materials that require extra grip.
Choosing the right first-layer approach depends on your filament type, bed material, and print geometry. You can experiment with different adhesion options to help you find what works best for your setup.
The Right Temperature for a Successful First Layer
Temperature settings play a major role in first-layer adhesion and overall print quality. There are three key temperatures to consider: nozzle temperature, bed temperature, and ambient temperature.
Nozzle Temperature
The hotend temperature needs to be high enough to melt the filament properly but not so high that it causes stringing or poor layer adhesion. Here are recommended starting points for common filaments:
- PLA: 190-220°C
- ABS: 230-250°C
- PETG: 220-250°C
- TPU (Flexible): 210-230°C
For the first layer, some slicers automatically increase the nozzle temperature slightly to improve adhesion. If you find your prints are not sticking well, try increasing the first-layer temperature by 5-10°C.
Bed Temperature
The print bed temperature helps keep the first layer adhered to the surface. Different materials require different heated bed settings:
- PLA: 50-60°C
- ABS: 90-110°C
- PETG: 70-85°C
- TPU: 50-60°C
ABS and PETG, in particular, benefit from a higher bed temperature to prevent warping. If you struggle with adhesion, try raising the bed temperature slightly.
Ambient Temperature & Enclosures
If you’re printing in a cold room or have drafts near your printer, the ambient temperature can cause prints to warp or detach from the bed. Enclosures help trap heat, especially when printing materials like ABS that tend to warp. For PLA, which doesn’t require high heat, an open-air setup is generally fine.
By fine-tuning these temperature settings, you’ll improve first-layer adhesion and overall print success.
Understanding Print Speed and Layer Height
Print speed and layer height directly impact print quality, durability, and time. Finding the right balance is key to getting prints that are detailed but also efficient.
Layer Height: Resolution vs. Speed
Layer height refers to the thickness of each printed layer and affects both detail and print duration:
- High-detail prints: 0.1mm layer height
- Standard prints: 0.2mm layer height
- Fast prints: 0.3-0.4mm layer height
A smaller layer height means finer details but longer print times, while a larger layer height prints faster but with a more noticeable layer texture. A good default is 0.2mm, which balances quality and speed.
Print Speed: Finding the Right Balance
Print speed (measured in mm/s) affects print quality and adhesion. Here’s a general guide:
- Detailed prints: 30-40mm/s
- Standard prints: 50-60mm/s
- Fast prints: 70-100mm/s
Slower speeds allow the filament to bond better, while higher speeds can lead to poor layer adhesion, especially on the first layer. Many slicers reduce the first-layer speed (e.g., to 20-30mm/s) to improve bed adhesion.
Retraction and Travel Speed
- Retraction settings help prevent stringing by pulling filament back when the nozzle moves between print areas.
- Travel speed (how fast the print head moves when not extruding) should be high (150-200mm/s) to minimize unnecessary oozing.
By adjusting speed and layer height appropriately, you can optimize your prints for either high detail or fast production.
That first layer can feel like one of the most difficult initial skills to master in 3D printing. Hang in there! Whether you use a raft, brim, or print directly on the bed, understanding your adhesion options will help prevent failed prints. Getting better at temperature settings will improve adhesion and prevent warping, while balancing speed and layer height will heop you achieve the best quality for your needs.
By experimenting with these settings and making small adjustments as needed, you’ll quickly gain confidence in 3D printing and produce high-quality prints consistently. Happy printing!
